Well, it was going so well, now a huge 750mA electrical battery drain is causing issues. Flat battery in 4 days.
The dash lights up in Red "Battery charge Fault", the car goes into limp mode and when it comes to a hill, it wont move at all. The engine revs lovely but the gearbox will not engage gear. IS THIS NORMAL FOR A FLAT BATTERY TO CAUSE THIS?
The car is charging at 14V at tick over and a bit more at 3000rpm. The battery has been tested, all ok and is showing 580Ah from a 630Ah specification, so healthy too, with no cell damage. I keep a charged battery in the boot as a back up!
I disconnect the N lead from the battery, have put on a multimeter on the connected live terminal and the disconnected Neutral, I slowly disconnected each fuse but nothing reduces the battery drain. According to specialists, its in the wiring on the ecu (which one), or the wiring in the dash.
Just as another kick in the balls, the "Faulty Injector system and fault parking brake" comes in for a chat too. " Oh, the power steering pump sensor is throwing its weight about. I reckon wiring faults too according to the code readings on the diagnostic port.
Mirrors wont stay where they were put to, even if I press the memory button on the seat. They have a mind of their own.
I am coming to a realization that my V6 3.5 initiale, will end up in the scrap yard soon., because I cannot rely on it at all.
Shame really as I have fitted new rear end bushes, rear shocks, front wishbones, new pads all around, new front discs, inner steering rods, rear tyres, battery etc etc, all in all about a £1k worth with labour.
Anyone want a car, done 102K miles and pretty smart too. Last week travelling down a motorway at 130 no problem! This week, laid up with huge electrical issues. Make an offer before I lose it and set fire to the bloody thing.
If you want to sell it, let me know. I’m going through a Masochistic phase at the moment.
These are frustrating heaps of poo too much of the time. I’ve owned VS since 2003 and I’m on my 6th and not certain why. I think it’s the looks and the space. It’s not the dodgy electrics, sticky trim, the rattle suspension or the lacquer peel. I think I stick with these because I love an underdog and I’m now immune to their foibles. I have also learned how to fix them despite limited mechanical knowledge.
What I can say is that a LOT of issues centre around a failing battery or bad earths.
As for changing the alternator on the 3.5 it’s not a terrible job but you will need a few hours and a removal of the front drivers wheel and arch liner. I done this job twice now and if I can do it so can anyone. Unless you’re Stevie Wonder.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/alternator-10450/renault/vel-satis/vel-satis-bj0/16419-3-5-v6-bj0r-bj0v-bj0u
Id advise a new one from Autodoc, if you get the mobile app you get notifications for big discount days up to 40% off but anything from 35% off and up is good. Its random so be alert! Theres some for £149 brand new on there dont know if that helps.
I havent personally done an alternator before but for where its located, that sounds about right. Also, you may now how fragile the auto tensioners can be for the auxilary belt so i'd suggest taking extra care as they can break (unless youve already replaced this!)
Thanks Keiran, Yes it has been traced to a faulty alternator, breaking down now and again!
I have been looking for a replacement but they are megabucks, so hopefully I can this one reconditioned for around £120. Having a quick look, it appears that I have to take the front wheel off, inner wheel arch trim off and then its a bit of a squeeze. Anyone done this repair before? Is it that difficult?
Hi Trevor, have you still got the Renault? Im sad to hear you are falling out of love with it - they can be a bugger for battery drains. However this sounds like a falty alternator to me that isnt recharging the battery, or potentially the leads to and from the alternator are fraying. I cant remember if you said you already replaced that?